Antennas For the Remote Base

The equipment is behaving and it’s time to turn our eye toward antenna improvement and more gain for DX.  Our original intention was to start with the PAR/LNR EF-20 on a 39′ fiberglass Spiderbeam pole to get on the air fast.  This is the antenna that has proven itself in multiple locations over the years and it has worked well here so far. Now all we want is more.

2016-03-02 14.32.27

How to improve?  First of all the EF-20 works only for 20 meters. Any antenna that gives us more bands will be a big improvement.   Next step is to find more gain at low angles for a better DX antenna. Horizontal dipoles at the proper height are always better DX antennas despite verticals’ claim to low angle of radiation. Verticals only win if they are over salt water. For a full size quarter wave vertical over average ground a gain of 0 dBi is typical and much less for a shortened vertical.  Horizontal antennas have the advantage of gain from ground reflections which verticals don’t have.  That gives dipoles about 8 dBi more gain above average soil.  Our goal is to aim that 8 dBi at the angle we want by putting the dipole at the correct height.

What is the correct dipole height to achieve DX?  First we have to determine the take off angle and that is a function of geometry — the distance to the DX station and the height of the ionosphere at that given moment.  The angle changes minute by minute and station by station making it impossible to select a perfect angle.  We can look at tables and computer programs to come up with a range.  Very distant stations require angles as low as 3 degrees and stations fairly nearby can be worked with 40 degrees.  Accumulated wisdom seems to say the best compromise to work the most stations is 15 degrees and we will call that our optimum take off angle.  This is also the angle we will use for our calculations.

What is the necessary height to attain a 15 degree take off angle for a 20 meter horizontal dipole over average ground?  We have modeled multiple dipoles using EZNEC 5.0 to find the right one. It’s strongest lobe at 15 degrees is when it’s height is 64 feet. EZNEC assumes flat ground which we don’t have. We also haven’t measured our soil conditions although we have referred to the M3 Map published by the FCC ( and reprinted in the ARRL Antenna Book ). Because of these two approximations our models will only be representative and not perfectly accurate.  We could make a soil conductivity test some day and improve our accuracy. A method without driving spikes is presented in the 23rd edition of the ARRL Antenna Book.

Figure 1 – “Ideal antenna”

Screenshot 2016-03-27 14.48.49

Here we show a gain of 7.22 dBi at 15 degrees, which is also the angle with the maximum gain.  Thus we know we are at the proper height for maximum gain at 15 degrees. In addition there is a healthy lobe at 50 degrees for those close-in stations. Notice the  nasty null at 35 degrees. We’ll call this the ideal antenna except for geographic areas where the 35 degree angle is needed. It’s really not an ideal antenna at all.  It just has a maximum at the 15 degree angle we want.

Now, let’s see…could I put up a 64 foot dipole….hmmm.  Not totally unheard of using a pair of Spiderbeam 18 meter fiberglass poles.  For now we will keep the “ideal antenna” in mind only as something to compare to.

For purposes of comparison let’s model the EF-20 vertical we are currently using.

Figure 2 – Existing vertical antenna

Screenshot 2016-03-27 15.49.37

Yes, it has a low angle of radiation peaking at only 17.6 degrees like verticals are suppose to.  Unfortunately the gain at that peak is only .71 dBi.  At 15 degrees, gain is only .5 dBi which is 6.72 dB worse than the dipole.  Pitiful.  It’s a wonder we’re working any DX at all.  We’re giving up over 6 dB from our ideal antenna.  We need four times the power just to break even.  Instead of 10 watts we need to run 40.  Ouch.  Again, on the other hand,  not unheard of.  That’s only down one S-unit.

Tom Rauch, W8JI, makes another point in an article titled “The Myth Of Take Off Angles”.  He suggests taking a more holistic approach and don’t ignore nulls and missing angles of radiation.  Look at the whole pattern. An antenna with deep nulls and missing angles is going to miss DX from a lot of geographies. The dipole is missing everything that requires a 35 degree take off angle. The vertical has no nulls but it is missing the entire higher angles from 30 degrees on up.  That will make it hard to work stations close in.


 

Are higher angles essential?  Power must be increased by it’s square to double the distance. That is, we need to quadruple the power to double how far we reach.  Another way to look at it is we only need a quarter of the power to work close in stations which is 6dB less power.  Or our antenna can have a 6 dB reduction in gain at the high angles when using the same power.  Perhaps a pattern like Figure 2 is not such a problem after all. 

 


What heights are within our means?  We might possibly use surplus fiberglass camo poles to reach up to a half wave on 20 meters, 32 feet. We would need two supports of 8 poles each. Here is what our gain would look like at 15 degrees.

Figure 3 – 20 Meter Dipole At 32 Feet

Screenshot 2016-03-27 15.24.52

Wow, 4.03 dBi vs. 7.22 dBi at 64 feet.  That is quite a hit.  More than 3 dB is given up. That’s half our power.  We could live with this by just turning up the power.  If we were going to run 10 watts we could crank it up to 20 watts and break even.  We might have to settle for this. Notice the maximum gain is 6.74 dBi at 31 degrees.  That angle is going to maximize signals to the U.S. East Coast where a concentration of hams live.  Trying to reach Europe competing with those strong East Coast signals could be a problem.  This is a real negative for this particular height.

Next let’s look at a little more height. If 32 feet uses 8 camo poles how about adding two more poles for each support to reach 40 feet?

Figure 4 – 20 Meter Dipole At 40 Feet

Screenshot 2016-03-27 15.35.24

Hmmm: 7.22 dBi – 6.15 dBi is down only about 1 dB. Still a loss but a 6 dBi gain at 15 degrees is nothing to sneeze at. That’s quadrupling our gain over the existing vertical plus there are no severe nulls. We have a peak at 24 degrees and that might be low enough to put the first hop beyond the East Coast, minimizing the strong competing signals.  This might be a compromise we can live with. Two supports of 10 camo poles each could be quite an undertaking.  Still nothing compared to the work involved of putting up a tower though.  A few years back we put up a loop at 28 feet using 7 camo poles for each end.  It looked like this.

image1[1]

These 7 section poles stayed up through winter and summer weather for a year and a half with no issues before I took them down.  But what if the supports were 10 sections high instead of 7?  Would it survive?

Would it be possible to eliminate one of the two support poles and put up an inverted vee on just one support?  Here’s a model.

Figure 5 – 20 Meter Inverted Vee At 40 Feet

Screenshot 2016-03-27 10.35.35

We’re back to that slightly disappointing 4 dBi range and we have that dreaded peak toward the East Coast again.  Compared to our ideal horizontal dipole at 64 feet with a gain of 7.22 dBi at 15 degrees we are giving up 3 db, half our power. We can overcome that by cranking the output but the real problem is those East Coast signals overpowering the European stations.  This is similar to the model of a dipole at 32 feet using two supports.  At that time we said we might have to live with doubling our output power to break even.

Conclusion

If you got this far, congratulations!  It’s a lot of boring graphs and reading.

Any of these horizontal antennas more than doubles the gain of the existing vertical but would they double the performance?  The existing vertical has one thing going for it. It’s low angle minimizes strong signals from the East Coast that can wipe out weak signals from Europe.   Table 1 summarizes the work.

Table 1

Antenna               Description                                           Gain @15 deg  Peak gain


Ideal antenna     horizontal dipole up 64′                    7.22 dBi           15*

EF-20                    end fed half wave dipole vertical    0.5 dBi             17.6

Dipole                   horizontal dipole up 32′                     4.03 dBi           31

Dipole                   horizontal dipole up 40′                    6.15 dBi            24

Inverted Vee       inverted vee up   40′                           4.78 dBi            27

*Peak gain is at 15 degrees but there is large lobe at 50 degrees that allows strong U.S. signals to over power the DX.

Multi Band

Multi-band operation hasn’t even been mentioned.  For other bands the plan is to use this antenna for all the high bands 20 thru 10 meters along with an SGC SG-230 auto tuner at the base.  The transmission line from the tuner up to the feed point would be ladder line.  For the lower bands we would use the transmission line as the antenna and the inverted vee would become a top hat.  For radials we would lay out welded wire fencing on the ground.  A relay would switch between the low bands and the high bands controllable over the Internet, of course.  The SG-230 would be used for both high bands and low bands.

A lot to digest and we’ll need some time to think about the best compromise. I have no decision for now.  Thank you for enduring this long post.

Post Note

At a hamfest yesterday I picked up a multiband vertical.  It’s a Comet CHA250BX.  It is 23.5 feet long with a very unique matching network at the bottom.  I think it is attempting to be an end fed half wave on each band. The coax provides a counterpoise. I plan to use a non metallic mast so it doesn’t interfere with the coax radiation.  Based on the model below I do not expect good things.  It’s advantage is it’s multi band  and it will be easy to put up considering it doesn’t need radials.  It might be a good interim antenna until I decide what to go with.

Figure 6 – Comet CHA250B Vertical Antenna – 20 meters

Screenshot 2016-03-27 19.58.00

 

March 28, 2016 Followup –  After sleeping on it and looking over yesterday’s work again I’m more confused than ever.  The existing EF-20 has the advantage of minimizing U.S. interference but the gain is very low.  Boosting power beyond 25 watts is not an option.  The 4 dBi antennas might not be a real improvement because they all have the U.S. interference issue.  Even the “ideal” antenna has that issue.  Should I be looking at something different instead that would give gain only at low angles?  Phased verticals or a four square? Loops?  Or a beam on a very tall tower (like 100′)?  Am I being overly concerned about East Coast interference?  Should I just put up a compromise 4 dBi antenna and see how it goes?  Time to take a break and ponder all this.

Ok, times up.  The compromise I am choosing is the inverted vee at 40′.

Hill Top Smill Top

I tried to operate from the top of a hill on the property temporarily but I could never get the test working.  Meanwhile I had been wanting to perform an HFTA as described in the ARRL Antenna Book.  HFTA stands for High Frequency Terrain Analysis.  That software program might tell me if I should move the setup to the hill top permanently.  After an evening of working with HFTA I concluded moving would not make a significant difference. In the directions of DX like Europe and Africa the terrain continues to slope down even though I’m not at the top of the hill.  In fact it slopes down toward Europe for more than a mile.  That sounds like a pretty good location.  Here are the two terrain plots toward Europe (45 degree azimuth).  Terrain drops off at a sharp angle.

Screenshot 2016-03-25 14.37.15

Figure 1 – Terrain toward Europe as seen from hill top ( red diamond is dipole at 39′ up).

Screenshot 2016-03-25 15.02.52

Figure 2 – Terrain toward Europe as seen from original location ( down the hill about 45′).

My conclusion: there is a downward slope toward Europe at both locations so it doesn’t matter.  HFTA is a fantastic tool. I must make note of the peak at 10,000 feet out.  It is much more of a concern when I am at the lower position.  This concern might be a reason to go up the hill later if performance isn’t what I hope for.

Square One Revisited

Today I feel like it’s back to square one.  It’s so frustrating when things don’t work. Got into the site today and restore the equipment.  Everything is back to the way it was March 3 when it all worked.  But it doesn’t work this time.  When I press the “ON” button on the control panel nothing happens.  The only clue is a “SIP Error” .  I’ve gone through all the simple stuff, checking each setting on both ends for differences, cables tight, rebooting, etc.   I was getting this yesterday when the equipment was at the temporary location on the hill top.  I was using a wifi-to-ethernet adapter and I thought that was possibly the problem because it was the only new piece introduced. Today I moved all the temporary stuff back down the hill to the original location and restored it.  Back home it still doesn’t work.  Tomorrow is a hamfest so I’ll be busy, plus there is supposed to be another snowstorm.  When I can get back to the site in a few days I plan to fetch the equipment back home and see if I can figure it out.   Back to square one.

Found it.  I had the port forwarding screwed up. I had the sip ports forwarded to the wrong i.p.(typo).  AHA!   The system comes up now.   Next is to test transmitting.

Yes!!!  It can transmit.  PSKreport is posting spots all over the U.S.  Just made a contact with AA7IX but unable to complete due to transmitter dropping. Levels?    Keep on it.  Oh, yes.  AA7IX is in Cheyenne which is in our black out zone, the donut hole. Hope is restored. Below is a screen snap of a K6TU analysis of my antenna, looking similar to a HAP Chart.

Screenshot 2016-03-24 16.12.48

A Week Later – The AHA! moment

March 16, 2016:  Aha Moment.  I was transmitting test tone instead of data.  It is apparently a bug in the WSJT-X 1.6 software.  It gets stuck in TUNE mode.  Once a person clicks the TUNE button, then HALT-TX, then ENABLE-TX the tones do not change back to data and modulate.  They stay solid as if still in TUNE mode. I was transmitting a solid tone. That’s why no one responded or posted me. And that’s why the power out, swr, etc looked fine. Restarting the application clears the trouble. It’s not an antenna problem at all. I was wrong.  Partly my fault for not taking the time to figure out how to turn on TX MON on the TS-480.  If I had done that I would have heard the solid tone and known instantly. Forty miles away and I can’t hear the signal over the air.   I had this solid tone problem once before with an earlier release. I thought it was resolved with 1.6.  Live and learn.  I spent some time attempting to activate TX MON.  The setup screen says it’s in TX MON mode and level is 5 but I hear nothing.  Where is the audio going?  Unknown.

Meanwhile one of the steps in troubleshooting was to move the antenna in an attempt to see if location was keeping the signal from getting out.  I used wifi to make the Internet connection back to the base.  It worked at first and now it doesn’t.  Next we got a spring snow storm and right now all work is on hold until the snow melts and the mud dries enough for us to get back to the site.

Day 6 – Intermittent Issues show up

New issues with every sunrise.  Today I can’t be heard again.  WTF?  Is it borderline antenna?

Next day was club meeting day at one of my favorite clubs, 285 Tech Connect, so I asked for opinions on my “can’t be heard” issue.  At that time I was blaming the antenna and had not yet figured out it might be something else, like an intermittent.

Consulting with a friend about my PAR EF-20 vertical he said all verticals need radials even if they are half wave end fed like mine.  I’ve witnessed a controversy on this subject for a long time and I would be skeptical except for one thing.  My friend is Bill, N0CU who has a master’s degree in electrical engineering and is a retired Martin rf engineer.  I respect his knowledge on antennas to say the least and my next step is to try a counterpoise.  The question is unanswered as to why I could work stations on March 3 and not now.

I tried his suggestions.  Nothing made any difference, counterpoises, etc.  I purchased rf ammeters to help locate stray rf current to no avail.  Symptoms remain: can’t be heard.

At this point I am pounding my head against the wall.  Nothing seems to help.

 

Day 5: Woo woo. It works!

During yesterday’s site visit I moved around the antenna cables and raised the antenna a foot.  Now it works. Go figure.  (More on this later). First qso this morning was with Ka7IGN in California with a report of -1 db (very strong) using JT65.  Off to the races.   Now to try for some DX.  Aha.  Next contact is R9ME in Asiatic Russia!  He gave me a -16 db. Oh, I love it.  By the way I’m only running 10 watts.

I knew that bluebird sitting on the Internet receiver would be good luck.

Here’s a screen snap of PSKReporter this morning:  Look at all those stations in Europe reporting they heard my station.

Screenshot 2016-03-04 07.41.24

 

Day whatever…can’t be heard.

WTF. The new coax arrived and I moved the antenna 100 feet away from the equipment.  SWR is 1:1.  ALC is 0.  Power out is 15 watts.  I see lots of DX coming in as usual.  When I transmit the Internet receiver doesn’t lock up anymore. On receive I no longer hear the solar controller. All very nice. The EMI is fixed and so is the rfi from the controller.  Next I attempted to make a contact.

No one can hear me.  PSKReporter confirms it. What the…?

Screenshot 2016-03-03 08.16.52

Suspicions:  The metal fence post is absorbing all the rf.  Bad coax connector lets through receive signal but not transmit power.   It’s a quarter wave long and looks like a short to the transmitter.

OK, I can see these possibilities but why then is the SWR 1:1?  Wouldn’t it indicate reflections if any of the above was true?  Time for ANOTHER site visit.

 

 

 

Sample of receiving results – March, 2016

Here is a screen snap showing a sample of what we’re seeing printed on JT65 at 7:30 am on 20 meters. Absolutey fabulous.  Beyond my wildest dreams.   I can’t wait to be able to transmit and see if I can work some of this delicious DX. All corners of the globe, Asiatic Russia, Netherlands, Germany, Sweden, Australia, and Indonesia all within the same minute. Now THIS is what I’m talking about!

Screenshot 2016-03-02 07.39.23

Day 4: Testing and Redesign

 

OMG is the best way to describe how well the receiver works.  I am seeing DX roll in from all over the globe on all bands.  This morning I saw Algeria on JT65.  I’m even hearing signals on 160 meters at night.  I had never heard any JT65 station on 160 before. I am thrilled with the first results.

We got Internet access hooked up and to the surprise of all the system worked on the first try for receive.  At home I pressed the ON button and the receiver came alive.  But then came time to transmit.

I tried transmitting and the SWR was infinite.  The auto tuner in the rig flashed an error.  Loose cable?  I hadn’t retuned the PAR EF-20.  Could it be far enough off?  Time for a trip to the site.

At the site I noticed I could wiggle the coax and get different results.  Bad connector on the coax. I could see the connector was soldered but it appeared to be a cold solder joint. Returning home I made up an entirely new cable and made sure the connector was hot enough to melt solder on it’s own.  No cold solder joints now.  I drove back down and replaced the cable.  I also re-tuned the antenna to dip the impedance exactly at the JT65 frequency of 14.076 MHz.

Interference from the solar controller was now noticeable.  I snapped on some toroids and that quieted the noise considerably but not completely. I also notice some birdies caused by the Internet receiver.  Back home and the SWR is now very low.  The rig is acting normal now.  Time to try the first contact.

The other shoe dropped when I cranked the power up to 25 watts and tried to make a contact.  “RF in the shack” crashed the remote.  I had to drive down and reset it.  Upon arrival I discovered all of my equipment was still running.  It was the Internet receiver that had locked up from the RF.  Back to the drawing board.

My first trial at fixing the problem will be to add more toroids but more importantly I will separate the antenna away from the equipment location.   I ordered 100′ of coax to allow the antenna to be relocated.  When the toroids and the coax arrive I will find out if this helps both the EMI to my receiver and the RF into the Internet receiver. Check back for the update on the results.

coax

Meanwhile I am just listening and comparing received signals with the RF Space Cloud-IQ sdr remote receiver I have access to.  Results so far are neck and neck.  Many stations have an identical SNR report on both units.  A small per centage have different readings and some drastically different readings.  Speculating I would say that’s the different polarization between the vertical antenna on the Elizabeth receiver and the horizontal dipole on the Cloud-IQ.

 

 

Day 3: Decisions

Stepping back to explain our choices.  All engineering judgement involves compromises to accommodate important factors like money, space, availability, and what one is comfortable with or what one already has experience with and so on.  Choices we made are strictly ours and your choices will be controlled by your own engineering judgement.

My Givens:

  • A feeling at home of sitting in front of an actual radio
  • No pc on either end
  • Knobs and an actual front panel
  • As little duct tape and baling wire as possible
  • Will receive as well as the Cloud-IQ remote sdr receiver I’m already using
  • Must work with JT65 digital mode but be capable of CW and SSB, too ( I am a JT65 junkie but I don’t want to give up the other modes totally).

Transceiver

Perhaps the most key decision is what radio to use.  My choice is the Kenwood TS-480SAT.

ts-480

Kenwood TS-480SAT

Information at:   http://www.kenwood.com/usa/com/amateur/ts-480sat/

 The decision was made easy for me because I already had the TS-480 on hand.  It had been my HF mobile rig for a few years and was available now.

A separable front panel makes things a lot easier for a remote operation.  All we have to do is simulate the umbilical cable over the Internet.  There are only a few models that have this feature.  Elecraft goes one step further with the K3/0 which has a front panel mounted on an empty radio cabinet.They also have a K3/0 Mini which is just the front panel without the empty cabinet. Had I not already had the TS-480  I probably would have chosen the Elecraft K3,K3/0 Mini combo. A key requirement was whatever radio I choose must work with the RemoteRig interfaces.  Either of these radios have that capability. When it comes to dynamic range I had some reservations that the TS-480 might not have the best receiver and I believe the Elecraft does have the best. I promised myself if the Kenwood doesn’t work out I’ll switch to the Elecraft.

Interface

I already gave away my choice on this one.  It’s the Microbits Remote Rig model RRC-MkIIs.

1258MkII-two-boxes-400x240

Remote Rig RRC-MkIIs

Information:    http://www.remoterig.com/wp/?page_id=1051

An interface should take away headaches not cause them.  There is a lot of good competition that I considered.  Many need a pc at one end or the other (or both) which is a deal killer for me. I’ve tried to keep pc’s running in unheated hutches with strange power before. It’s a challenge. Remote Rigs have processors built in at both ends.  These units are as close as possible to being a transparent connection between the TS-480 base unit and control panel. No pc at either end. They satisfy the requirement of replacing the umbilical cable with the Internet.  I could not tell any operational difference on the bench when I was testing between the Kenwood supplied cable and the Remote Rigs running over the Internet.  Some of the competitors require a pc to control the radio remotely AND a separate Skype connection for voice.  What a headache.  When I read Remote Rig has it’s own built in automatic Skype connection included I was sold.

Remote Rig (Microbits) has new models coming out all the time.  Since my purchase decision Remote Rig has made available “twin mode” models.  It requires two identical transceivers.  One is at the remote site, the other on your desk at home.  Every operation you perform on your desk is duplicated on the remote transceiver.  Certainly not the least expensive option but it has one real advantage.  When troubleshooting at the remote site just putting the TS-480 in transmit mode requires heroic efforts.  I have to drag my Remote Rig control unit and TS-480 front panel to the site each time, along with some way to power it and to access the Internet.  Having a full transceiver would eliminate that chore and make troubleshooting much easier.  At home that desktop transceiver would feel like a real transceiver…because it is! I like RemoteRig’s update.

Power Monitor

4005i-bigZoom

Rig Runner 4005i

Information:  http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=rr_4005i

This isn’t a critical need but it sure makes power control comfortable.  I hadn’t even considered this item until I ran across it at Dayton and started discussing what it does.  It controls power ports over the Internet so I can power cycle a single piece of equipment without driving to the site.  It has fuses built in.  Not just ordinary fuses but poly fuses.  This means if one blows it restores automatically once the fault is cleared. Again no trip to the site (unless the smoke got out).  It also displays amperage and voltage on each port.  Nice for piece of mind.

Internet

Internet access is that so called umbilical between the radio and the front panel — a very critical component.  Latency should be low, probably below 100 ms.  Can you ping the site with return times of less than 100 ms?  Satellite internet is typically 350 ms.  I was afraid to try satellite because of it’s long path delay.  Local wireline carriers were not a possibility because our site is a half mile back from the road.   Ethernet won’t go that far.  Wifi would require a power source.  Cell phones might work but the monthly charge for unlimited data is prohibitive.  Wireless internet access is the perfect solution if one is lucky enough to be within a coverage area.  The have fast latency and they can put a receiver anywhere there is a signal.  Fortunately we spotted a tower nearby and knew we could get service.  A requirement is access from the outside world so we needed a static i.p.  Without it we would have been given a private i.p. which is not accessible from the outside world.  Our good fortune is thanks to this company:

directlink

Information:   http://godirectlink.com/

We chose their least expensive offering because we don’t need much bandwidth.  We are using voip (voice over internet protocol) service which requires 100 Kb each direction.  Our service provides 12 Mbps so it’s a huge overkill.  Controlling the rigs and accessories requires only a few additional Kb.

Note: If we had line of sight between our home shack and the remote we could have set up our own link.   We would be looking at Ubiquiti Nano Stations or similar for a range up to 10 miles.

Router

I chose the first old router I could find stored in a closet somewhere.  It happened to be the Linksys E2500 from a few years back.  I was happy that it’s power jack specified 12 volts.  Most routers I have seen will run on 12 volts despite whatever voltage they say because they have a regulator inside.  Any router is fine new or old.  We are just going to use it to set up port forwarding and we don’t need much processing power for the small bandwidth we will use. We don’t need wifi but I am using it because it’s easier to connect to the system when I’m at the site. Wifi draws an extra .14 A from the power budget.

router

Linksys E2500

Information:    http://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-E2500/

This is the Linksys E2500 but I suggest you use the first available router your hands touch from any source as long as it’s legal.

Solar System

Obviously this section is optional if you have access to ac power at your site already.  We don’t. Actually we do but we wanted to stay off the grid, and what a great opportunity to learn more about the latest solar technology. The biggest challenge was figuring out what capacity we needed.  We got a rule of thumb from a local solar dealer who said he had set up solar systems for hams’ remote bases before.  He suggested 400 watts and a PWM controller rated at 10 A per 100 watts.  I could count up the usage of things that run 24 hours like the router and the Remote Rig.  What was perplexing was guessing how many hours of radio operation I should plan for.  How much listening time and how much transmitting time?  In the end I just took a guess and went with the dealer’s numbers.  I used NREL’s solar calculator site

http://pvwatts.nrel.gov/

to determine how much sunlight in Colorado, and at what angle the panels should tilt.  I only bought three 100 watt panels because the mounting for 4 would have doubled the cost.  Amazon had free shipping and no sales tax on panels and the price is coming down all the time.  I chose a 30A controller from the same company, Renogy.  Battery capacity totaled the same amp-hours as the panels produce minus the equipment load. Rather than a commercial mounting I used perforated angle iron from Home Depot and staged it in the back yard.

2016-01-21 10.28.43

Here’s what the panels look like after being moved to the site.  By the way the camera is pointed toward Europe so this is what it’s look like toward the DX.    Exciting.  Can you see the Eiffel Tower?

2016-01-30 15.05.37

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